Rare Grapes of Italy

Lesser-known varieties are seeing a resurgence in popularity

By Sandra Crittenden
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Italy is one of the most bio-diverse countries in the world when it comes to grapes. There are more than 350 different types of grapes that are currently authorized across Italy’s 20 major wine regions with estimates ranging as high as 2,000 total grape varieties growing in the boot-shaped country. Many of these are still being identified and studied. 

 Italy’s long history of winemaking dates back over 3,500 years. Wine was being made in Italy when the Greeks arrived in the 8th century BC and settled in Sicily and Southern Italy bringing with them new grapevines and more skilled know-how, creating a true wine culture. They actually named the country Oenotria, which translates to “the land of the trained vines.” 

 The Romans also spread vines across the country and later monks would document and preserve more viticultural knowledge. Along the way, grapes from neighboring countries would also spread into the land and the grapes that grew most easily, often became the most favored.

 As modern technology like DNA identification has become more prevalent, interest in some of the lost or lesser known varieties found across the country has grown. 

 Piemonte is known for its majestic wines made from Nebbiolo, most notably Barolo and Barbaresco, but it also produces large amounts of wine from Dolcetto and Barbera which are more value oriented and food friendly. 

 Recently, there have been more wines showing up in Texas made from some of their lesser known grapes like Freisa, Grignolino, and Ruché. And Piemonte is not the only region getting excited about some of the rarer native varieties. 

 Numerous grapes are grown down south and off the coast in Sicily, which is known for its volcano wines. Some grapes are native, and some were brought to the country thousands of years ago by the Greeks. Over the millennia, they have evolved into something uniquely Sicilian. 

 Sicily is most known for its rich reds from Nero d’Avola. Recently, more white wines have been making an appearance in this market, especially those made from Carricante and Grillo. 

 Placeholder imageCarricante is the main grape in wines labeled Etna Bianco and it is grown primarily in the mineral rich soils on the northwestern side of the Mount Etna volcano. This unique terroir is the highest mountain in the Mediterranean and it is also Europe’s largest and most active volcano. 

 Modern wine drinkers have been very receptive to trying lesser known grapes. Interest in discovering new grapes and new wine regions has led to unique and uncommon options in restaurants, wine shops, and wine bars across the country. 

 This consumer curiosity did not exist 20 years ago and it has led winemakers across the world to rediscover forgotten varieties, giving oenophiles new tasting opportunities. There has never been a better time to be a wine lover. 

 Seek Out These Italian Rarities 

 Carricante grapes in Etna Bianco, like the ones used in making Pietradolce Archineri 2021, have a fresh, citrusy taste with a sapid savoriness so indicative of volcano wines. This wine works well with seafood and Thai curries. 

 Large-berried and thick-skinned, Catalanesca grapes were considered nothing more than a table grape by the Italian government until 2006, when the variety was added to the national registry of wine grapes. Catalanesca grapes are grown in the Campania region. 

 The Campania region is where Naples and the island of Capri are located, with Mount Vesuvius being one of the great tourist attractions in the area. The volcanic soils surrounding the site are ideal for grape growing. 

 Catalanesca grapes are not native to the region but were brought there from Spain in 1450 by King Alfonso of Aragon and planted on the side of Mount Somma. Recognition of its ability to produce excellent white wines in 2006 led to its revival and newfound interest in the wines produced. 

 Taste it in Cantine Olivella “Kata” Catalanesca 2021. This wine has a silky texture with floral aromas, fruit notes of melon and pear with dried herbs and a saline mineral finish. This wine is perfect with raw oysters or grilled fish. 

 The Nascetta grape from the Langhe area in Piemonte is a difficult-to-grow grape variety and has a long history in the region but it almost went extinct during the 20th century. This white has been gaining popularity since the mid-90s and is now championed by a handful of producers in the town of Novello. 

 Try Elvio Cogno Anas-Cetta 2020 with notes of juicy blood orange, wildflowers, sage, and a flinty minerality. Pair it with antipasto, vegetable dishes, or seafood. 

 The Rossese grape used in making Punta Crena Vigneto Isasco Rossese Riviera Ligure di Ponente 2021 is an obscure grape grown in Liguria. It makes a fresh, spicy red wine with notes of dark berries, aromatic herbs - like basil and mint - with an easy-drinking, round feel and a touch of coastal salinity. This wine stands up to rich pastas and grilled meats. 

 Susumaniello grapes from Puglia are grown at the heel of the Italian boot. This region is most known for the Primitivo grape whose DNA has now proven its relationship to Zinfandel. 

 The Susumaniello grape, an ancient variety now garnering fresh attention, has been rediscovered and is being used to create a rich, concentrated red wine. Taste it in the Masseria Li Veli Susumaniello 2021 and enjoy the red raspberry fruit notes with sweet tobacco, and a savoriness that is ideal with pizza, pasta, and olives.