Savor the Flavor: Unexpected Delights from Your Smoker

Think beyond the basics with these creative delights

By Esther Davis McKenna
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Tired of serving the same old brisket, chicken, or ribs at your backyard barbecue? It seems every family in Texas has a favorite recipe for the usual smoked meats. But, if you are determined to create a delicious, creative, and unexpected menu for your spring break or summer soiree, read on. 

 First, a little barbecue background. Most historians believe that modern-day barbecue is the great-grandchild of ‘barbacoa’ from the West Indies where indigenous people of the Caribbean preserved meats in the sun. Native cooks would build small, smoky fires and place the meat on racks over the fires to keep bugs at bay. 

 Others believe it evolved from ancient Asia where meats were highly seasoned and marinated before cooking. In North America, smoked meat has been documented in the diets of Indigenous people for hundreds of years. 

 In Colonial America, the process of slowly cooking meat was often reserved for poor cuts of meat left for enslaved and low-income people. Eventually, racks used to dry the meat were replaced with pits and smokehouses. 

 Wherever it hails from, the low-and-slow method of smoking meat over a wood fire is an age-old and almost completely universal practice. Barbecue has long been an inexpensive food source throughout the South, though labor-intensive. 

 If you wander out of the South, you will quickly find people who refer to barbecuing as smacking a burger onto an open flame on a Weber grill. A Texan would most likely refer to this as ‘grilling out.’ 

 The biggest differences, however, between Texans and other pitmasters around the country are the types of sauces they use, and the choice of meats they smoke. In Texas, barbecue means beef, specifically brisket. Most everywhere else, it refers to pork. 

 Modern-day pitmasters are becoming more and more culinary conscious and adding fresh, unexpected delights to their repertoires. With a little creativity and experimentation, you can too. Don’t settle for boring when planning your spring or summer cookout this year.  

To get you started, GM has compiled five recipes from our readers for several unique menu items that utilize smoked meat and fish, something special for your veggie-loving friends, and even a recipe for a smoky craft cocktail. 

Jean Lafitte 

 

 BURNT ENDS Affectionately termed “meat candy,” these sweet and savory bites are made from cubed pieces of a slow-cooked brisket point or tip, also sometimes called the deckle. This cut comes from the pectoral muscle of the cow and is exceptionally tough because the cow uses it frequently. 

 It is also well-marbled with fat, so when the meat cooks low and slow over a wood fire those tight and connective tissues gelatinize as the fat melts and moisturizes the meat. You are then left with little nuggets of tender beef. 

 Pitmaster and commercial jet pilot Nick Nelson marinates already-smoked bits of brisket in a sweet and tangy homemade barbecue sauce and grills them slowly in a cast iron skillet over an open flame. This treat is a Nelson family favorite; loved by his children and wife of 40 years, Cindy. 

 The Nelsons were regular visitors to Galveston Island before becoming homeowners in 2006 and full-time west end residents in 2017. Nelson says, “Take your time with the caramelization.” His burnt ends take 5-10 minutes, over low-to-medium heat, to reach the desired texture.

 “Keep batches small and cook over a lower heat. Remember, the meat is already cooked, and you don’t want to burn it, just get the skillet warm enough to caramelize the sugars in the marinade,” said Nelson. “You want to stand on top of it, literally,” he said. “There is a fine line between caramelized and downright burned.” 

 Recipe:
• Dry rub then smoke brisket for 10-12 hours depending on weight, until it reaches 165 degrees internally.
• Wrap smoked brisket in heavy-duty foil then place in pan, add a beer, and place in the oven on warm until the temperature reaches 195 degrees internally. Rest for 30-45 minutes.
• Separate the point from the flat. Cube the point into one-inch nuggets. Mix homemade BBQ sauce (or use your favorite) with honey and agave nectar. Marinate the brisket cubes in the mixture.
• Cook it in a cast iron skillet on the grill, which Nick says is not traditional, to caramelize the outside. Caramelize the cubes in small batches to get the best flavor and color. 

 Placeholder image(SECOND CUT) BLOODY MARY As with many iconic cocktails like the French 75 and Sidecar, the Bloody Mary has been traced back to the infamous Harry’s New York Bar in Paris. Russians introduced vodka when they emigrated to Paris in the late 1800s and early 1900s, and Americans brought canned tomato juice which was sold on menus during prohibition as a “tomato juice cocktail.” 

 In 1921, French bartender Fernand Petiot mixed these two ingredients and added his own spices, lemon juice, and seasoning. Viola, the Bloody Mary was born. 

 “Our featured version is called ‘second cut’ because a lot of Texas barbeque competitors want their brisket to make the second cut. And, when you do, it’s usually brunch time and there is a pan full of beautiful brisket drippings just waiting to be put to use,” said John McNatt. “And, hey, everyone needs their vegetables.” 

 When making this classic cocktail, McNatt urges readers to start with plain tomato juice (he makes his own) and not a Bloody Mary mix like V-8 or Zing Zang. 

 “You want to add fresh vegetables, spices, and seasonings. It only takes a few extra minutes, and you will create the most flavorful and delicious Bloody Mary. For this recipe, it takes 10-15 minutes from start to finish.” 

 McNatt is a lifelong islander and owns a construction company that specializes in the preservation of commercial buildings, historic churches, and residences, among other things. He and his wife, Hope, live and work on Galveston Island.

 The addition of the brisket juice, sans fat, creates a great beefy, umami flavor but, of course, you could always use the juice of pork or chicken, whatever you’re smoking, McNatt said. He warns further that the drippings usually contain a fair amount of salt, therefore it is important to adjust the salt after blending. 

 Recipe:
• Combine four cups of tomato juice, one cup of vodka, one-third cup of distilled vinegar, one small cucumber with skin and seeds removed, two or three cloves of pressed garlic, two or three tablespoons of brisket drippings without fat, two tablespoons of prepared horseradish, four to five dashes of hot sauce, one teaspoon of celery seed, and one teaspoon of freshly cracked black pepper in a blender.
• Mix well on high speed until completely incorporated. Adjust seasoning and ingredients to taste.
• Serve in a tall glass packed with ice and lemon or lime wedge and your favorite garnish of celery, green beans, pickled onions, okra, or olives. Refrigerate leftovers and shake well before serving the next round. 

 

Jean Lafitte 

CABBAGE, SMOKED ON THE PIT This recipe doesn’t call for many ingredients, but it will take longer than most sides to complete cooking. The good news is that you can make this delicious side dish on the same day your brisket is smoking, and the pit is already up and going. 

 Lisa Peters adapted this dish from her grandmother’s oven-baked recipe. She and her husband Kevin are award-winning cooks who have spent many years in cooking competitions. 

 “I saw someone throw some cabbage on the smoker during a competition and thought my grandmother’s recipe would be perfect like this,” Peters said. 

 “Over the years I’ve tweaked it here and there to make it my own. It’s a perfect entry for the ‘open’ category.”

 The Peters work in the industrial construction business and have lived on Galveston Island with their two children since 2005. They spent decades collecting trophies in the cookoff circuit. 

 “In Texas Cookoff Competitions we are surrounded by beef all day, all the time. It’s a welcome change to cook up a vegetable now and again,” she said. 

 Prep work for this recipe takes about 15 minutes but the cooking time depends on a few different things. If the temperature on the grill is low, cook it longer. If it’s hot, cook it shorter, Peters said. 

 “The best way to check if it is cooked is to open up your aluminum foil package. If the leaves are translucent, the cabbage is done.” 

 “If you like it a little crispier, take it off the grill sooner or cut it into quarters and sear it on the grill. I like to set it on the pit to finish and char just slightly, for 15-20 minutes,” added Peters. 

 Get creative with it, said Peters. “Personalize the flavors to your palate. Use a chipotle vinaigrette instead of Italian dressing or make a creamy green goddess dressing to serve it with,” she suggested.

 Recipe:
• Take a head of cabbage and prepare it one of two ways: Cut it in half and remove the core and some cabbage. Or method B, core the cabbage and leave it whole, with a minimum one-inch hole in the center. • Slightly cook a half-pound of bacon. If using the first method, place bacon and grease on each half before dousing with a small bottle of Italian dressing. For method B, stuff with bacon, bacon fat, and dressing.
• Coat the outside of the cabbage with dressing, cayenne pepper, Uncle Chris’ Steak Seasoning (Fiesta Brand), and salt and pepper to taste. Place two halves back together and wrap tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil or just wrap the whole, stuffed cabbage with foil.
•Then place on grill and smoke until leaves are translucent.

Jean Lafitte 

 

 RED SNAPPER ON THE HALF-SHELL Cody Dunn is an adventurous soul with a giving heart; much like his island-famous sister Gina Spagnola. This pro-angler’s name graced a billboard just outside of Sea Star Base on Galveston Island, where he held many fundraisers and fishing tournaments for veterans and children with severe disabilities. He’s also granted many Make-A-Wish requests and is currently forming after-school fishing programs at some Galveston schools. 

 This Red Snapper on the Half-Shell recipe is a Dunn family favorite. “My daughter Falon requests it often. It’s her favorite way to eat fish,” he said. 

 Sheepshead, grouper, and golden tilefish all work well with this recipe, Dunn said, because there is less mess, it’s easy, and all the natural juices and fats stay in the meat.

 “Fish is naturally more flavorful and moister when it is cooked this way,” he said. 

 Dunn lives in La Marque with his wife Christina and has just received certification for teaching safe boating classes on the national level. He has taken over 1,500 veterans fishing and taught more than 20,000 people in the Galveston area how to fish. 

 He started the Sam Mixon Fishing Club at Ball High School as part of the after-school curriculum. Dunn hopes this will become a district-wide fishing club with annual tournaments. 

 The club has been named after a local teen who was tragically killed in 2022. If you are interested in joining next year’s fishing club, inquire through your guidance counselor.

 He supports the community through grants from the Mary Moody Foundation. If you would like to contribute to his non-profit organization, Cody Dunn Outdoor Adventures, please send an email to codydunnfishing@gmail.com.

 Recipe:
; • Filet fish, leaving skin and scales on. This will avoid burning and overcooking. Cut the flesh in a cross-hatch pattern, careful not to break through the skin.
• Before seasoning, rub the flesh with extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt, pepper, minced garlic, and Old Bay seasoning.
• Put it directly on the smoker, no oil or aluminum foil on skin. Cook for 30 minutes at 200 degrees, for an internal temperature of 140 degrees for cooked through and 120 degrees for a little under. Dunn uses a mix of hickory and charcoal in his smoker. 

Jean Lafitte 

 

 SMOKED SHOTGUN SHELLS These meat-and-cheese stuffed manicotti noodles are wrapped in crispy bacon and finished with a sweet and spicy chili or barbecue sauce. The tubular shape of the finished product resembles a shotgun shell, hence its name. The sweet and spicy bites are fairly new to the barbeque scene and are sure to be a hit at your next party. 

 Real estate agent Mel Bousley III says to get creative with your ingredients when preparing this dish. “Stuff the shells with the meat and cheeses you like best and you can’t go wrong,” he said. 

 Bousley is no stranger to the island or a barbecue pit. He grew up in Galveston County and currently lives with his wife Susan, a native Texan, in Texas City. 

 The two have spent countless hours behind their barbecue pit preparing smoked foods for their friends and families, before perfecting their version of Smoked Shotgun Shells.

 Bousley says it is best to let the stuffed shells sit overnight in the refrigerator, so they have enough time to absorb excess moisture, before cooking.

 He first made this dish for tailgating before Houston Texans home games. The dish became so popular among his friends that they started requesting it at house parties. It’s also simple to make and easy to transport, which makes it perfect for outdoor events. 

 Recipe:
• Marinate overnight two pounds of boneless, skinless chicken thighs with 20 ounces of your favorite sweet chili sauce. Bake in the oven at 375 degrees for 20-40 minutes, depending on size. After the chicken is fully cooked, let it rest and cool before shredding.
• In a large mixing bowl, combine chicken with eight ounces of softened cream cheese, one pound of shredded Mexican blend cheese, three finely chopped serrano and two jalapeno peppers, one-half of an onion, and a bunch of fresh cilantro.
• Mix well and stuff carefully into two, eight-ounce boxes of raw manicotti shells. Be extra gentle as you do not want to break the shell. Wrap each shell with an uncooked piece of thick bacon strip, using two 12-ounce packages total. Place prepared shells in the refrigerator overnight.
• Cook directly on the smoker and grill until the bacon is crisp, or cook in a preheated, 375-degree oven, until bacon is crisp. With 10 minutes remaining, glaze shotgun shells with more sweet chili sauce. After resting, cut shells in half for ease of eating.