Island Flavors: Galveston’s Sandwich Gems

From the classic to the exotic, nine must-try creations to savor from Galveston’s unique sandwich scene

By Esther Davis McKenna
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Most food historians agree that the sandwich was created out of convenience, but its origin has been widely debated. No one knows when or where the first chef placed meat, cheese or other food between two slices of bread, but we do know the name was formally adopted in the 18th century for John Montagu, the Fourth Earl of Sandwich. 

 According to an oft-cited account from a contemporary French travel book, the Earl had sliced meat and bread brought to him at a gaming table so he could continue playing as he ate. 

 Others claim that the sandwich was created to keep workers on site when lunching. It is decidedly less time-consuming to pull a sandwich crafted from leftovers from a lunch pail than to travel home for the noon meal. 

 There are accounts of the popularity of sandwiches in both French and English societies dating back hundreds of years. Truly universal, the sandwich has now been incorporated into nearly every cuisine by virtue of its simplicity of preparation and portability. 

 Light rounds of cucumber and smoked salmon mousse, hearty French croque monsieurs/madames, and the Italian loaf loaded with cured meats and cheeses - all examples of traditional sandwiches. 

 Eaten hot or cold, today’s sandwich has as many endless varieties as it does names. Subs, hoagies, sammies, heroes, grinders, po’ boys, paninis, presses and cheesesteaks, are a few examples. 

 They can be served grilled, pressed, open-faced, wrapped, stacked, double-decked - anything that can be “sandwiched” together and eaten will qualify. 

 The humble grilled cheese or peanut butter and jelly sandwiches are beloved mainstays of the American child and something we may still enjoy as adults. Whether we eat them in a cafeteria as children or behind our desks as adults, most Americans enjoy a life-long love affair with sandwiches. 

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 Galveston Monthly has previously covered the ever-popular hamburger, muffuletta and chicken sandwiches in the past. This month we set out to cover a wide array of favorite sandwiches of our staff and readers. 

 Whichever way you “roll,” the sandwich proves to be the ultimate comfort food. This list should be enough to satisfy your appetite and curiosity. If your favorite is not listed here, please let us know. We will surely cover this topic again in the future. 

 THE CUBANITO FROM HABANOS CAFÉ 

 The Cubanito is a pressed and toasted sandwich containing layers of ham, shredded roast pork, Swiss cheese, mustard and pickles. Habanos Café serves their sandwich with a mojo sauce and a side of yucca fries. 

 Placeholder imageThe recipe and preparation of the pork for this sandwich have both been passed down through generations of the Betancourt family. Owner Rudy Betancourt has Cuban roots that run deep. His family emigrated to the United States from Cuba in the early 1960s and made their way to Galveston. 

 MACEO’S MEATBALL SUB 

 Each meatball made at Maceo Spice and Import Co. weighs in at a hefty quarter pound. The meatballs are hand-rolled from a mix of beef and pork and include fresh breadcrumbs made with owner Concetta Maceo’s secret spice mix. 

 Each meatball is stuffed with fresh mozzarella and the sub is topped with melted provolone. The sandwich is served with Maceo’s famous tomato gravy which simmers on the stove for two full days. 

 MACEO’S SHRIMP SALAD CROISSANT 

 Created for the infamous Balinese Room, the recipe for Maceo’s shrimp salad has been passed down for many generations. 

 Using only fresh shrimp caught in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, this classic salad is made with eggs, celery, mayonnaise, and Maceo’s flagship blend of seafood seasoning and served on a croissant that is dressed with lettuce and tomato. 

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 THE CRABBY GOAT AT THE BREWS BROTHERS 

 Small details, like the perfect buttery toast on the sourdough bread, are why customers keep coming back to eat at this downtown establishment. From the creative mind and kitchen of head chef Blaine Lunz, this upscale grilled cheese sandwich features locally sourced goat cheese mixed with roasted garlic and fresh basil, Gulf Coast crab claw meat, crispy bacon, and tomato. 

 Upgrades include fresh, hand-cut potato crisps that can be flavored with dill and garlic (pictured) or house-made IPA blue cheese or buffalo dressings. 

 THE SHRIMP ARTERY CLOGGER AT SONNY’S PLACE 

 This sandwich is not for the faint of heart; pun very much intended. And it is not to be confused with the regular Artery Clogger that is served with chicken fried steak. 

 This massive sandwich is loaded with Sonny’s famous fried shrimp, American and Swiss cheeses, crispy bacon, ranch dressing, mustard, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles. 

 This bar/restaurant has been owned and operated by the Puccetti family since it opened in 1944 and is full of Galveston lore. Sonny’s Place is the granddaddy of all off-the-beaten-path neighborhood hangouts on the island, where everybody really does know your name and the memorabilia is genuine, right down to the bullet holes in the bar. 

 Placeholder imageTHE REUBEN AT O’MALLEY’S STAGE DOOR PUB 

 Reuben sandwiches are known for their hearty size and the serving at O’Malley’s Pub will not disappoint. 

 This mile-high pile of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing on rye, marble, or black bread is a popular sandwich at many Galveston eateries. So many, that it was next to impossible to pick just one. So, we let our readers choose.

 Barkeep Jay Gurney tells us the Reuben has been a mainstay on the menu at O’Malley’s since they opened in the late 1980s. Their version is served on black Russian rye, sometimes called dark sourdough bread, and comes with a bag of chips and a sour pickle. 

 A tip from Galveston Monthly, Gurney keeps a private stash of spicy brown mustard in the kitchen and may be willing to share on request. 

 OLD MOON DELI IS ON ISLAND TIME 

 Owner Vince Bruno says the Island Time Sandwich at Old Moon Deli is a “reflection of Galveston Island itself: sweet, savory, and fun with a little bit of unexpected heat.” 

 This classic deli is island-famous for its big sandwich menu and the Island Time is a favorite among our readers. 

 Comprised of jerk chicken, gouda, red onions, pineapple steak, avocado, and a spicy jerk sauce, it is served on a locally baked jalapeno cheddar bun that is toasted. 

 THE CAPTAIN HANS AT KATIE’S SEAFOOD HOUSE 

 You may just find yourself exclaiming the words of famous American poet Walt Whitman: “Oh Captain! My Captain!” after eating this seafood stuffed sandwich. And with Katie’s Seafood Market right next door, it’s a sure bet that Katie’s Seafood House sandwiches are made with the freshest seafood on the island. 

 The Captain Hans Ultimate Po’boy is a beast. A nine-inch garlic, mozzarella cheese, and Italian-seasoned French bread is loaded with cracker-crusted jumbo Gulf shrimp, crispy cornmeal fried American Red Snapper, Gulf oysters, grilled bacon, tomatoes, red onion, red leaf lettuce, and drizzled with Cajun remoulade. It is served with fries and slaw. 

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 CHILANGO BROTHERS PAMBAZO

 Expect large portions from any item served at the Chilangos Brothers Taco Shop. Brothers, business partners, and island residents Isaias and Efrain Herrera moved to Galveston to realize their dream of opening a restaurant featuring authentic food from Mexico City, where they hail from. 

 Billed as “More Mexican than Mexico City,” their Pambazo sandwich features Telera bread covered in red adobo, fried on the griddle, and filled with mashed potatoes, chorizo, and Mexican cheese and served with lettuce, tomato, and sour cream. You can order birria meat, as shown in the photo, for an additional cost. 

All breads, sopas, and salsas are scratch-made, in-house. Customers can choose from several sauces on the side: the green sauce made from tomatillos and chile de ‘arbol peppers; the red sauce made from tomatoes and a variety of dried peppers; and the roasted salsa made from roasted tomatillos and peppers. 

 Tell your server the level of heat you want, and they will be happy to accommodate you. 

 The age-old and time-saving practice of random food in sunbaked flatbreads dates back thousands of years. Over time, the simple sandwich has become as varied as the breads and foodstuffs available in modern markets. 

 Whether it’s made with classic ingredients or those from the “nouveau tableau,” it’s safe to assume that the simple sandwich will probably be around for a few thousand more.