Save Room For Pie

A Galveston pie tour, a childhood memory, and a recipe that still knows its way home

By Jeaie Jo Cullip
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A family friend once gave my husband what may still be the most convincing case for ordering dessert: there’s always room for pie because pie is shaped like a wedge. Apparently dessert follows its own laws of geometry. 

 I’ve never bothered arguing with the logic, because pie really does seem to find a way in. We can finish dinner certain that another bite is impossible, sit for twenty minutes, and then someone mentions pie and our appetite makes a remarkable recovery. 

 Maybe that’s because pie has never been only about hunger. It turns up in diners and bakeries, at family tables and neighborhood cafés, behind glass cases and beneath plastic domes. 

 It can be elaborate enough to require a carefully woven lattice or simple enough to be nothing more than fruit tucked beneath pastry. Some of us have a favorite filling; others have a favorite person attached to one. 

 Pie hardly needs an occasion. Sometimes a weeknight out is reason enough. So naturally, I decided some research was required. It’s a difficult job, but someone has to do it. 

 A Little Slice of History
Long before pie became woven into American food culture, cooks were enclosing fillings in pastry. Some early versions looked nothing like the tender, flaky crusts we expect today. 

 Sturdy pastry shells often served as cooking vessels and containers for meat or other fillings, and the crust itself wasn’t always the part anyone cared about eating. 

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 Over time, that practical shell became something far more appealing. English and European pie traditions crossed the Atlantic with colonists, who adapted them to the ingredients available in North America. 

 Apples, berries, pumpkins, pecans, molasses, cream, citrus - anything that could be sweetened, thickened, and tucked inside pastry eventually found its way into American pie plates. 

 Perhaps that adaptability is part of pie’s staying power. Pie has never demanded one particular filling or even one particular identity. 

 It can be savory or sweet, covered with pastry or topped with cream, meringue, nuts, or nothing at all. It can come from a carefully guarded family recipe or a bakery case you spotted on the way home. 

 Somewhere along the way, pie also became deeply personal. Ask someone about a favorite and you rarely get only a flavor. 

 You get the person who made it, the place where you ate it, or the occasion that made it matter - which makes pie research considerably more interesting than simply deciding which slice tastes best. 

 Island Pie Tour
Once pie was on my mind, the only reasonable thing to do was see how Galveston interpreted it. 

 At Old Moon Deli & Pies, 408 23rd Street, pie is hardly an afterthought. The downtown artisan deli occupies a two-story space in the historic National Hotel Artists Lofts building. 

 Upstairs feels a little like stepping into another era, while downstairs sandwiches and homemade pies comfortably share the spotlight. The pie selection changes often, which means the case itself becomes part of the decision. 

 We stopped in for a muffuletta and chicken salad sandwiches, but pie was the real reason I was there. We chose apple, chocolate cream, and coconut cream, three slices that each brought something completely different to the table. 

 The apple was familiar in the way good fruit pie often is, the sort of dessert that feels as though you have eaten some version of it your entire life. Chocolate cream was cool, rich, and unapologetically dessert, while coconut cream brought its own old-fashioned sweetness. 

 Choosing a favorite felt beside the point. The fun was discovering how many entirely different desserts can live beneath the word pie. 

 Over on the East End, The Sunflower Bakery & Cafe, at 512 14th Street, has its own way of doing pie. What began in 1999 as a small bakery selling baked goods and sandwiches grew into one of those neighborhood places where breakfast, lunch, and a bakery case all compete for your attention. 

 Placeholder imageMuch of the food is made from scratch, and the bakery starts its work early, filling the cases with breads, pastries, cakes, and, fortunately for my purposes, pie. 

 We had brunch first and then turned our attention to the bakery case. That is where restraint became difficult. 

 We chose slices of both chocolate-covered pecan pie and key lime pie, one rich and decadent, the other bright and tart. The pecan pie layered chocolate onto an already indulgent classic, while the key lime offered the kind of citrusy sharpness that makes another bite surprisingly easy to justify. 

 Perhaps that is one of pie’s better tricks. Just when one slice seems like enough, another comes along tasting nothing like the first. 

 Then there is Gaido’s, at 3828 Seawall Boulevard, where dessert arrives with more than a century of Galveston history behind it. The restaurant has been part of the island since 1911, one of those places where the story of Galveston and the story of what people have eaten here have been intertwined for generations.

 Its Pecan Crunch Texas Pie has a history of its own. Unlike a traditional pecan pie with nuts scattered over the filling, this one is baked and then inverted, leaving a layer of pecans to form the crust. 

 It is the sort of detail that makes you stop and reconsider what you thought a familiar dessert was supposed to look like. And, naturally, makes you want to taste it. 

 There is something fitting about finding pecans at the end of this particular Galveston pie tour. After apple, chocolate, coconut, and key lime, the Pecan Crunch brought the story somewhere unmistakably Texas, while also carrying a recipe that has been part of one island restaurant for generations. 

 Different places. Different pies. Different stories. And after all of them, I found myself thinking about the one pie none of those places could make for me. Blueberry. 

 The Pie From Home 

 For all those slices, however, the pie I kept thinking about was one I had not ordered anywhere in Galveston. It was blueberry. 

 I grew up on a blueberry farm in Puyallup, Washington, so blueberries were practically their own food group in our house. We made jam, jelly, muffins, pies, and almost anything else we could think of. 

 My grandmother’s blueberry pie was part of that world, one of those recipes that did not seem particularly remarkable when I was young because it was simply ours. 

 When you grow up around that much fruit, you also learn something useful: food does not have to be complicated to matter. Blueberry pie was simply part of life. 

 Berries, sweetness, pastry, and the knowledge that those blueberries had come from somewhere close enough to feel ordinary at the time. 

 Of course, childhood is very good at disguising the things we will eventually become sentimental about. I did not know then that I would someday live on an island in Texas, write about food, study its history, go to culinary school, and still find myself returning to those same blueberries. 

 Which is why, after spending this month thinking about pie around Galveston, I did not want the Food Souvenir to imitate something I had tasted at Old Moon, Sunflower, or Gaido’s. 

 I wanted to bring you one of mine. Just in a slightly different shape. 

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 Food Souvenir: Mini Blueberry Galettes A galette is essentially pie without the pie plate, and these individual versions take the blueberry pie of my childhood and loosen the rules a little. Refrigerated pie crust keeps them easy enough to make without turning dessert into an afternoon project. The filling is blueberries, sugar, lemon, and cornstarch, while a simple mixture of flour and sugar - sometimes called crust dust - sits beneath the fruit to help absorb some of the juices as the berries bake. They are rustic on purpose, with blueberries tucked inside pastry, the edges folded around them, and everything baked until the filling bubbles and the crust turns deeply golden. In other words, grandmother’s blueberry pie took a little trip of its own. Save Room Maybe my husband’s friend was right all those years ago. Maybe pie really does occupy some mysterious wedge-shaped space that dinner cannot reach. But I suspect the reason we save room has considerably less to do with geometry. We save room because dessert is often where the stories are. It is where a familiar flavor brings someone back into the room, where a bakery box becomes part of an evening out, and where the pie you ordered in Galveston becomes the one you recommend to someone months later. And sometimes it is where a girl who grew up surrounded by blueberries finds herself decades later, rolling pastry in a kitchen far from that farm and discovering that the flavor she remembers still knows exactly how to get home. Pie does not always need a perfect lattice or even a pie plate. Sometimes all it needs is fruit, pastry, and a recipe capable of taking us somewhere familiar. For me, blueberries will always do exactly that. So whether you are planning a celebration, gathering around a table, wandering into one of Galveston’s bakeries, or simply deciding that an ordinary evening could use dessert, I think we already know what to do. Save room. Pie has already done the math.