As fall begins and cooler temperatures set in, Merlot is ready to take center stage. This wine is one of the red Noble Grapes of Bordeaux that also include Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
It is often described as soft, lush, and fleshy which makes it a good blending partner for the more tannic Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is also satisfyingly delicious on its own.
The first wine labeled as California Merlot came out in 1970, a project of Louis P. Martini. Its success led to several premium bottlings of the grape over the next 20 years.
Producers like Clos du Val, Newton, and Duckhorn enticed red wine lovers to embrace this new varietal wine from the region known for Cabernet Sauvignon.
In 1991, it went through a second wave of popularity after the airing of a “60 Minutes” television segment called “The French Paradox.” The feature espoused the health benefits of red wine. Cocktail drinkers across America switched to red wine overnight and demand increased.
By the mid-1990s, Merlot was the crowd-pleasing red wine that was often sold by the glass in restaurants. It was easy to drink with its smooth structure and fruity flavors and it became a favorite with all kinds of cuisine.
New wine drinkers were also looking for a health boost thought to come with incorporating a French lifestyle. To meet the increased demand, Merlot plantings began to rise.
This led to Merlot vineyards being planted in less-than-optimal sites. White grapes, such as French Columbard that were used for inexpensive white blends, were quickly replaced with Merlot plantings. This led to a decline in quality which would soon lead to a lack of interest in consumers.
Ironically, it would be a 2004 hit movie titled “Sideways,” which would further lead to its decline. The movie's character of Miles declared on screen: “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any [expletive] Merlot!”
Snobbishness amongst wine drinkers toward Merlot was immediate and Miles’ preferred choice, Pinot Noir, began to rise in sales.
High-quality Merlot grows well in cooler clay soils similar to its ancestral home in France in Bordeaux's Right Bank. To help improve fruit quality, California grape growers began removing Merlot vines from the less-than-optimal sites to areas with better soils.
Iconic producer Château Pétrus, who makes the most expensive and coveted wine in the Right Bank region, advocates for early harvesting of Merlot grapes to maintain the acidity that can be lost when over-ripened.
This approach leads to Merlot wines with more finesse and freshness. Many California producers are embracing this philosophy, and more delicious Merlot is now making its way to wine shelves.
In the United States, California is known for its Cabernet while Washington State has gained a reputation for their top-quality and affordable Merlot, especially from the Red Mountain AVA in south central Washington. This particular area has clay- and sand-based soils that create grapes with exceptional color and balance, creating rich and velvety Merlot.
This fall, enjoy Merlot with all types of roasted meats and vegetables, braised lamb, grilled steak and hamburgers, and Italian classics like lasagna or pizza. Due to its fruity flavor and softer structure of moderate acidity and tannins, Merlot also pairs well with strong cheeses such as sharp cheddar or blue.
This October, choose a red wine that can satisfy the masses and drink a glass of velvety, smooth Merlot. It’s easy pairing capability and crowd-pleasing nature make it a good option when entertaining.
LABEL RECOMMENDATIONS
Truchard Carneros Napa Valley Merlot
The clay soils and cooler temperatures of Carneros create a juicy and elegant Merlot. This wine has plum and blueberry notes with hints of flowers and baking spice. The price is a steal at $16.
Kiona Estate Red Mountain Merlot This powerful yet pretty red has classic notes of plum and cherry with sage and a pleasing texture from neutral barrel aging. It sells for approximately $28.
Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot From the brand that was part of the early quality wave of Merlot in California, this classic remains a top seller for a reason. A combination of mountain and valley floor fruit combine to give fresh acidity and velvety tannins to the glass. This wine has plum, cherry, and hints of licorice throughout and has a lush finish. It sells for $60.
Pestoni Family Rutherford Napa Valley Merlot Fruity, soft and velvety with notes of cherry and baking spices, this textured Merlot feels light and lingering. This wine has a price point of $63.
Petit-Figeac Saint-Emilion This Bordeaux red is the second wine from the highly esteemed Château Figeac. It features aromas and flavors of mixed plums and berries with sage and bay leaves, has a rounded feel, and a persistent finish. The price point is $100.
Guillot Clauzel Pomerol This Right Bank Bordeaux from Pomerol is worth the splurge, showing an elegant floral character of violets with blackberries, mint, and dried fruit with polished tannins and a lengthy, smooth finish. This wine costs around $130.