Pinot Gris, a white wine grape, is originally from the Bourgogne region of France. It is a mutation of the Pinot Noir grape that has characteristics that make it appealing to winegrowers for several reasons: the grape thrives in cool regions, it ripens early, and it makes very drinkable wines.

Though there are still scattered amounts in both the French regions of Burgundy and Champagne, the grape has found its primary home in the northeast region of Alsace, which borders Switzerland and Germany.

Most Alsatian Pinot Gris is dry, full bodied, and fruity with notes of apple, pear, stone fruit, tropical fruit, and citrus mingling with fresh acidity. Only a small amount of Alsatian Pinot Gris is produced in a sweet style made from late harvested grapes to make dessert wines in the vendange tardive category.

The variety would not stay isolated in France for long, the wines the grapes produced were so good that the grapes would travel far and wide and find many new homes.

It spread east into Alsace and Germany, where it is known as Rulander and Grauburgunder; into Hungary, where it goes by Szurkebarat; and south into Italy, where it became known as Pinot Grigio. Regardless of the local name, they are all technically the same Pinot Gris grapes.

In America, Italian Pinot Grigio successfully flooded the market in a way that no other Pinot Gris producing country has done. The fresh and unoaked style was the antidote for white wine lovers who were palate-weary from the heavily oaked California Chardonnays that had been dominating the white wine market.

These new lighter wines reflected a winemaking style influenced by the Italian terroir which was different from Alsace Pinot Gris. Italian Pinot Grigio is typically made in a crisper, more medium body style that is very consumable in Texas’ hotter summer months, especially when well-chilled.

However, with the rise in popularity, some lesser versions have also hit the market. The best Italian Pinot Grigios come from the Friuli and Alto Adige areas and feature a fresh mineral edge that comes from the soils.

The Pinot Gris grape would eventually venture far beyond Europe establishing itself in Australia, New Zealand, South America, and the United States. Oregon is the first state in the U.S. to introduce the grape, and it is now the most widely planted white grape in Oregon, second in acreage only to its red skinned relative, Pinot Noir.

David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards brought the first Pinot Gris vines to the Willamette Valley. Lett planted his first Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines in 1965, and a few years later, he added Pinot Gris.

There was great difficulty in selling the small amount he was producing of this virtually unknown variety, and the story goes that Lett traded most of it for salmon from the local fishermen for years before it finally found its niche in the market in the 1980s.

Though Pinot Gris is a white grape that primarily makes classic white wine, the skin color is a deeper color than one might expect from the pale shade so often seen in the glass.

The grapes may range from a gray-infused pink to a gray/blue shade. This unusual color gives winemakers the opportunity to also produce a pale pink or orange-colored wine with a bigger tannic structure by allowing the grapes to have more prolonged contact with the grape skins.

The classic pairing for Pinot Gris is seafood, which makes it an ideal choice for coastal dwellers. Snapper and shellfish will not be overwhelmed by this white, but it is traditionally paired with cod and mussels. The wines also feature spicy notes, making it an excellent companion with Asian flavors, like ginger, curry, and saffron.

While most Pinot Gris is produced in a dry style, there are some sweet versions made from late-harvested grapes. These smaller production dessert wines are most notably paired with savory foie gras in Alsace.

While there is some variation, most Willamette wineries have adopted a style more in line with the Pinot Gris of Alsace than Italian Pinot Grigio. However, the recent purchase of ROCO winery by Italian wine brand Santa Margarita may change that. In general, expect dry, rich, and refreshing whites with notes of melon, pear, peach, and citrus when sipping on Oregon’s top whites. Try these Pinot Gris wines from Willamette Valley this spring and pair them with your favorite local seafood dishes.

Cooper Mountain Pinot Gris 2020: This wine is both organic and biodynamic. It is rich and ripe with a weightier texture enhanced by the stirring of the lees or yeast and has subtle notes of lime citrus with pear. Found at Spec’s for under $19.

Cultavin Cellars 99 West Pinot Gris 2020: This classic version is rich and round with peach and citrus notes and a dry, mineral-laced finish. On the shelf at Spec’s for under $15.

Left Coast “The Orchard” Pinot Gris 2020: Fresh and clean with bright notes of pear and lime. Under $18 at Spec’s.

Kings Ridge Pinot Gris 2019: Crisp and aromatic with honeysuckle, Asian pear, and Meyer lemon, this fruit forward wine is richly textured and produced from grapes sourced from some of Willamette’s coolest vineyards. Priced at $15.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2019: Fresh and lingering with light notes of pineapple and ruby red grapefruit. WVV founder Jim Bernau obtained his vines from cuttings off of the original Willamette Valley Pinot Gris vines at Eyrie. Approximately $18.