Winning the Battle Against Grass Burrs

Effective tips for ridding your lawn of these prickly pesky weeds

By Donna Gable Hatch
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What started as a minor inconvenience - a piece of a sticker burr lodged deep in my finger while weeding the garden - turned into a visit to the dermatologist. I tried to remove the offending sticker with tweezers but after several painful attempts, my finger became red and swollen and it throbbed. I knew I needed professional assistance. 

 The doctor confirmed the burr was deeply embedded and likely causing an infection. He used a punch biopsy to remove it after numbing my finger with lidocaine. Despite the anesthetic, the pressure and pain were more intense than expected. When he finally removed the core of the tissue, I felt both relieved and a bit queasy. 

 Though the experience was painful, I was relieved to be free of the burr and learned not to underestimate the impact of something so small. 

 I’m not alone in my prickly and painful experience dealing with the Cenchrus spinifex. These persistent weeds thrive in the island's sandy, often harsh, growing conditions. 

 More than a mere nuisance, these burrs hijack the beauty out of many yards and gardens. 

 Galveston Monthly asked Boone Holladay, a Galveston County Extension Horticulturist, to discuss how homeowners can tackle these stubborn burrs and restore their lawns to their natural beauty. 

 Sticker burrs, or grassburs, are a reseeding annual grass. This means it grows, flowers, sets seed, and dies in a single year. However, in the Galveston climate and growing conditions, it can overwinter and grow again the next year, essentially behaving as a perennial. 

 “If you live on the island, you're living on sand, and this plant loves sandy soil. It also thrives in poor growing conditions, such as low fertility and drought-impacted areas. 

 “Further, the seeds are easily carried around by humans, small animals, mowers, wind, bicycle tires, etc.” 

 When it comes to eliminating sticker burrs, there's no single solution. 

 "An integrated approach is best,” Holladay said. "First, think about cultural practices such as improving turf health with soil fertility and irrigation. Second, think of mechanical control, such as hand digging and removing seed heads as they develop. Lastly, look at chemical control options.”

 These are nasty suckers, and it takes a combined approach to make a real dent, he warned. “Any one of these methods alone just doesn’t cut it.”

 Homeowners have several herbicide options to choose from, depending on the timing and situation. 

 Pre-emergent herbicides, like Barricade, stop the seeds from sprouting. Post-emergent selective herbicides, such as Image, target mature weeds without damaging the surrounding lawn.

 A third option, which is post-emergent non-selective herbicides, like Eraser, kill any plant they contact. 

 “There are also natural formulations in the last category, including vinegar-based organic herbicides," Holladay said. 

 For those looking for non-chemical solutions, Holladay suggested some old-fashioned methods. 

 Start by maintaining a healthy, thick, and tall lawn to block grassbur seedlings from growing. Next, focus on reducing seed development and preventing them from falling into the soil. Regularly mowing and bagging clippings can help remove seeds. 

 “Further, an old farm trick is to drag old pieces of carpet over the lawn for seeds to grab onto, he said. “We used to pull one behind our riding mower while we mowed the grass. After each mowing, we'd simply throw that carpet into our burn pile. 

 A proactive approach to preventing sticker burrs from gaining a foothold is essential for effective management. 

 To prevent the spread of seeds, Holladay advised keeping an eye on seed heads before they can drop into the soil. Each burr contains two seeds, and with each plant making hundreds of burrs, they can quickly get out of hand. 

 Certain grasses or ground covers can effectively suppress or prevent sticker burr growth. The key is to ensure the ground cover or turf is four to six inches tall with a dense, evergreen canopy to shade and block grassbur seedlings from sprouting. 

 “Seeds begin to sprout once the soil temperatures warm in mid-spring. For us [in Galveston] that may be around May 1. Mid-April would be the time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide and then focus on the health of your lawn to shade out any sprouting seedlings.” 

 Once sticker burrs have set in, though, removing them without threat of injury becomes a delicate task, Holladay said.

 “The burrs are not only sharp at the tip, but also have tiny barbs that hold the seed onto its transportation host,” he said. 

 “Pull the barb straight out and do so slowly, so as not to break the tip off under the skin. A topical pain relief cream can help ease the pain.” 

 Proper lawn care plays a significant role in keeping sticker burrs at bay. Underwatering a lawn can contribute to the spread of sticker burrs. The weed thrives in dry conditions, so it's important to monitor moisture levels and irrigate as needed. 

 Also avoid overwatering, as it can lead to root rot and a weakened lawn. Bare spots caused by overwatering create ideal conditions for grassbur to take hold.

 A well-maintained lawn, combined with herbicide applications, can eventually reduce grassbur populations. 

 While many other weeds play a vital role in supporting the environment, the same cannot be said for sticker burrs. 

 "Every living organism has a place in the environment, but this particular plant doesn't seem to offer any benefit," Holladay said. 

 However, it may have one saving grace. "Cenchrus spinifex does grow in very poor soils and harsh conditions where other plants won't, so you could argue it helps remediate poor soils," he said. 

 A comprehensive list of chemical options for controlling sticker burrs can be found in the recently updated grassbur management guide, available for download from here.